Sunday 29 April 2012

Le Chaos de Targasonne

Over Easter Ceri and I headed out to Targasonne (Cerdagne area of the Pyrenees, on the border of Spain and Andorra) for two weeks. We had visited Targasonne before in August 2007 as an aside from routes in Gorge du Tarn, but on this occasion it was a mistake as it was scorching and we quickly headed back, so we arrived this time hoping for better conditions and favourable temps.
The first couple of days were hot and we were rather tired from the drive/work, so progress was slow, but as the conditions improved the scalps began to fall. Targasonne is a beautiful place and the granite is not as sharp as people make out (although you will get flayed if it's hot...be warned! Spring was perfect but no later!). Indeed we had a bit of everything weather wise...intense sun (everything is south facing!), hail, snow, rain and perfect cloudy/windy conditions.
At the end of the first week the young bucks arrived in the form of Dan 'can of Monster for breakfast' Turner and the Freeman brothers, Ben and John ('they're special you see'). The only member of 'team Babs' not that keen was 'the General' who mooched about about a bit and then slept in the sun mostly, dreaming about his couch back in the Shire.
By the end of our couple of weeks (about ten days climbing in total) Ceri had taken down 'Serrez Stimulez' 7a+ (her first at the grade!) at Taz and I'd racked up fair crop 8a/8a+s and so, with rather tender finger tips, we hightailed it home...a great trip and keen for a return next Easter...the ridge down to Angoustrine appears to have some fantastic potential! Turnip is in the process of putting together something on Vimeo or somethingorother, check it out!
Now back in Blighty it's WET...but 'the Cave' shall provide, failing that, training has begun in earnest for Rocklands and then Magic Wood in July/August.

Top Trumps (the scores are a little all over the place!):
I Shot Sarconazy 8a
Uniformicide 8a (flash)
La Beautie de la Chose 8a+
Magic Instinct 8a
Sing while you mail 8a (flash)
Psoas Hole 8a+
Shadow Dancer 8a...hard, I thought 8a+!
...plus loads of 7c/7c+s...L'oeuil du voisin 7c at Chapeau (next to the campsite) was my favourite.

Forgot to mention,stay at Camping 'La Griole', the owners are lovely and very helpful...plus it's a beautiful spot.