Bulbhaul

At the end of September I'd sussed the moves on Bulbhaul 8b at Almscliff and was keen to give it a go, more as a way to train for a problem in the States rather than as an end in itself. The Keel boulder kicks my arse; strung out and core intensive all the way, any previous success on this block had been hard earned so I felt I had nothing to lose. The poor weather in October forced me indoors and I feel like I've trained in a structured way for the first time ever. Lots of core punishment, no rest and trying to keep up with Turnip and Dr P at the Depot were the key. Getting back on the problem a couple of weeks ago I surprized myself by getting to and falling on the last move, then the nerves kicked in as I knew it was on. Last weekend I fell at the same point and thoughts of going backwards soon materialised. Yesterday, I luckily scraped up it by the 'skin of my teeth', thanks to sheer will power and Ceri screaming encouragement. Feeling rather beaten up today as man-flu has finally struck, probably as pay back for going under 9 stone! Respect to Tom Peckitt for opening Bulbhaul, it's a great piece of involved and frustrating climbing. Gonna give 'the Cliff' a rest for a while!

All change

The last sixth months have been a little strange to say the least. The 'old King' wasn't well in April and was in hospital by August having his engine over-hauled. I'm pleased to say though, that he's just been signed off and has made a great recovery. Consequently the summer was a bit of a write-off, we'd already cancelled a return to South Africa in August and as things turned out it was good that we did. Since going back to work in September it's been all change and rather busy. Ceri and I waved a tearful farewell to 'Babs' our VW van, I resigned from work and leave at Christmas, Ceri got a two month sabbatical, we booked flights to the States and I got a new job starting after Easter...just gotta sort a trip to Font in March now and get over a tweaky finger tendon. Trying to train as much as possible at the moment though, as the weather has been so awful since the start of October. I hope I can put it all together and really push it for once, now that I've sorted some quality time in the new year. I've tried to tick-over with a bit of bouldering over the summer but it's been hard going at times... a few tasty morsels though: Event Horizon 6c+ Samson Stones...the legs cry 'never again' but nice to see Greg honoured. Tarantula 7c Nuda's Tartan...funky Simple Simon 7b Wright's Rock...nice day with CK before the op, 20 years to climb in the Churnet! Byker Groove 7c Sean's Roof, Will 8a Mallory Boulder, Ogwen Mirf's Roof 7c, Churnet...very, very good. All Natural 8a, Almscliff...used my route endurance! Lancaster Bomber 7c, Lad Stones...mint.

Primitive Notion 8a+

Primitive Notion from Highball Productions on Vimeo.

This is Yorkshire

Check it out...season 2012/2013

This Is Yorkshire from Highball Productions on Vimeo.

Hiraeth

I've been over to the north of Wales the last couple of weekends, which has been brilliant. I'd forgotten what it's like to climb in the mountains; great blocs, crazy rock and the sun certainly helped! It was also nice to meet up with the old 'mafia', as Robins, Panton and Ray are as keen as ever. Managed to get a bit done in between feasting, sunning and epic walk-ins. We headed over to Betws and did Nodder's new classic, Roof of da baby Buddha 7c+...what a problem!
As Ceri was trying Elephantitus 7a in Nant Gwynant, I crabbed along Cross Therapy 8a, but only after The Tusk 7c/7c+  started to feel a bit easier. We also managed to get parked in the Pass and enjoyed a day on the Wavelength hillside (not been there for years!), where we got on a few classics like Boysen's Groove and King of Drunks and I dispatched Love Pie 7c+. Can't wait to get back over...;-)

Primitive Man

Over the last month I've been beavering away at the white (grey) stuff and although it felt quite brutal to begin with, in comparison with trying to levitate on gritstone slopers all winter, it has now started to pay off with a decent summit.
On Monday evening I managed to grab the finishing hold of Primitive Notion 8a+ at Kilnsey and make the fourth ascent of the bloc after such notables as Dunningdinho, Back Two (whose foot beta, I hope has improved since joining Scarpa :) and the boy Jones.
Although you always feel a little awkward bouldering at Kilnsey, the variety of moves/holds and rock quality on PN more than make up for bouldering at such an esteemed routing crag. I'd even go so far as to say it was one of the 'best' limestone blocs in this fair isle. Footage will feature in the extras section of 'This is Yorkshire' and no doubt DT will crush the fifth this week.

End of the Season

As the grit season is now drawing to a close, I've been casting around for a few summer projects and even dabbling in a little early limestone. Having said that though, I managed to piece together the first half of Ullola 8b at Caley. The initial slopes to half way are rather good and around 8a/8a+ for the link. The second half was unpleasant, snappy and very hard...not something I'll go back to! Hopefully the young bucks will get involved.
Pottering around in the Peak and at Longridge and climbing a few 7c/7c+ blocs has been good fun and I now have few projects to keep me occupied over the summer and next winter. I'm also reasonably close to a hard lime proj in the Shire which I'm really keen to get linked over the next couple of weeks.
Keep ya eyes peeled for 'This is Yorkshire', the trailer has been well received even with my close up!

Rhythm pic from last season

pic: Tom Woodcock

North of the Wall

Just got back from a long week in the County with Ceri, Woody, Tim and the Duchess. Great time all round, perfect little 'bothy' holiday cottage, good food and great company. We climbed every day as the weather was so good...Bowdens, Kyloes and Redheugh etc and ate lots of the Duchess' flapjack. Tim managed to scalp a couple of 7c's and a 7b+ and I did a couple of 7c+ blocs, in between getting agonisingly close on Working Class 8a+ at Bowden. Really keen to get back there soon.
Now back in the Shire I have another week of Easter holidays so I hope the weather holds and I can get back out on the grit. Spent today at Caley and brushed up a project as well as supporting DT with his repeat of High Fidelty 8b. It was good to return the spot after my attempts on Rhythm and brought back a few memories. What a line and truly brutal gritstone climbing. Brilliant Dan. Well done.

Rhythm

Last week I managed to make the fourth ascent of Rhythm 8b at Flasby Fell. Although just outside the medals, joining Dunning, Clifford and Varian on the role call was brilliant. It's easy to forget that Steve scooped this almost ten years ago and even though it is one of the most aesthetic 'hard' problems on grit its only had four ascents since then!
Coincidentally just after Steve had opened the problem I had been over in the Shire with Ray and Simon from North Wales and we headed up to do some pictures with Steve. Although I would never have admitted it at the time, especially to Steve, he'd made a terrific ascent of a stunning problem and along with High Fidelity 8b at Caley, taken bouldering standards in Yorkshire into a new league.
Although Steve's sequence was probably near his estimated 8b+, I agree with Dan V that 'low' (if there is such a thing!) 8b is about right. TC was obviously too strong for his own good!
Although rather dismaying considering my own efforts on Rhythm, 'Back Two' Varian unleashed a one day Beastmaker blitzkrieg on his third ascent last year, his footage did really help unlock a 'do able' sequence, although mine took a little longer! Finally, big thanks to DT for keeping me keen and motivating me. Nice one...keep ya eyes peeled for his 'edit'.
It's all been going off in the Shire over the last couple of months with Jordan and Dave Jones both getting repeats of High Fidelity and the 'old fox' Dunning thoroughly embraced his Frank Lampard years and nailed a third ascent of my problem 'Chabal' 8a+ at Gorple. Great efforts.

Fat Lady footage

http://player.vimeo.com/video/62417054

The Fat Lady Sings!

Over the last month I've been climbing outside regularly, albeit in between snow showers, but I've been really enjoying it and making progress on some new grit projects. I hope the weather plays ball over the next couple of weeks and I can finish a few things off.
We ventured over to the Bowderstone last weekend for a bit of a change and some early Spring steel sharpening...although it was a bit damp the team took a few scalps and I managed a second ascent of the Ladder Face 'classic' Fat Lady 8b (although an 'eliminate', it climbs really rather well and it don't feel like it), put up by Dan Varian in September last year. I seemed to unlock her charms fairly quickly but needless to say it nearly turned epic in the end!
After much deliberating we have had to bin our trip to Rocklands this summer, what with jobs, DIY projects and various other problems it didn't seem like a good plan...hopefully Bishop at Christmas for a couple of weeks though...keen.
Must finish with a pat on the back for Alex Barrows after his second ascent of 'Pilgrimage' aka 'The Big Link' in Parisella's Cave. Brilliant. Having watched a video of Alex's successful redpoint and having the experience of my own rather mediocre dabblings, it seems obvious that route style links with sport grades and the use of knee pads (and endless core endurance!) will be the future 'norm' in the Cave and this seems like a totally positive way to go. I think we should be a little quicker to give whole hearted plaudits in future...great effort.

2013

2013 has got off to a good start climbing wise, even though the weather over Christmas was useless. On the last weekend of the holiday, Ceri and I headed over to the East coast for chips in Whitby and strange grit/sandstone at Stoupe Brow (Ravensdale). I managed to nail Darkstar ss 7c+ and Precision 7b on Saturday and Requiem for a Dream 8a on Sunday. Requiem is a brilliant 'king line' prow, put up by Tom Newman a few years back- I'd always meant to check it out. It went fairly easily after a bit of an inspection on my new extender ladder!!
Last weekend we braved the cold and slightly damp and headed to Carrock Fell in the Lakes and I managed to settle a score with Metronome 8a (ss to Dan's Wall)...nice little bloc, if a little sharp and definitely one for chilly temps.
Just recovering after a slight scare on my new grit highball. I'd had this on the cards for a while but never managed to get around to getting it done. 'Treebeard' is around 7c...easy roof to tech/fingery arete, with a fifty foot drop two metres away from the landing pads!...great line. Cheers to Tim and Dan for the spot, well done to DT for getting the silver. Think it'll feature in 'This is Yorkshire'.

'Treebeard' 7c