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| pic: Tom Woodcock |
Tuesday 9 April 2013
Monday 8 April 2013
North of the Wall
Just got back from a long week in the County with Ceri, Woody, Tim and the Duchess. Great time all round, perfect little 'bothy' holiday cottage, good food and great company. We climbed every day as the weather was so good...Bowdens, Kyloes and Redheugh etc and ate lots of the Duchess' flapjack. Tim managed to scalp a couple of 7c's and a 7b+ and I did a couple of 7c+ blocs, in between getting agonisingly close on Working Class 8a+ at Bowden. Really keen to get back there soon.
Now back in the Shire I have another week of Easter holidays so I hope the weather holds and I can get back out on the grit. Spent today at Caley and brushed up a project as well as supporting DT with his repeat of High Fidelty 8b. It was good to return the spot after my attempts on Rhythm and brought back a few memories. What a line and truly brutal gritstone climbing. Brilliant Dan. Well done.
Now back in the Shire I have another week of Easter holidays so I hope the weather holds and I can get back out on the grit. Spent today at Caley and brushed up a project as well as supporting DT with his repeat of High Fidelty 8b. It was good to return the spot after my attempts on Rhythm and brought back a few memories. What a line and truly brutal gritstone climbing. Brilliant Dan. Well done.
Sunday 7 April 2013
Rhythm
Last week I managed to make the fourth ascent of Rhythm 8b at Flasby Fell. Although just outside the medals, joining Dunning, Clifford and Varian on the role call was brilliant. It's easy to forget that Steve scooped this almost ten years ago and even though it is one of the most aesthetic 'hard' problems on grit its only had four ascents since then!
Coincidentally just after Steve had opened the problem I had been over in the Shire with Ray and Simon from North Wales and we headed up to do some pictures with Steve. Although I would never have admitted it at the time, especially to Steve, he'd made a terrific ascent of a stunning problem and along with High Fidelity 8b at Caley, taken bouldering standards in Yorkshire into a new league.
Although Steve's sequence was probably near his estimated 8b+, I agree with Dan V that 'low' (if there is such a thing!) 8b is about right. TC was obviously too strong for his own good!
Although rather dismaying considering my own efforts on Rhythm, 'Back Two' Varian unleashed a one day Beastmaker blitzkrieg on his third ascent last year, his footage did really help unlock a 'do able' sequence, although mine took a little longer! Finally, big thanks to DT for keeping me keen and motivating me. Nice one...keep ya eyes peeled for his 'edit'.
It's all been going off in the Shire over the last couple of months with Jordan and Dave Jones both getting repeats of High Fidelity and the 'old fox' Dunning thoroughly embraced his Frank Lampard years and nailed a third ascent of my problem 'Chabal' 8a+ at Gorple. Great efforts.
Coincidentally just after Steve had opened the problem I had been over in the Shire with Ray and Simon from North Wales and we headed up to do some pictures with Steve. Although I would never have admitted it at the time, especially to Steve, he'd made a terrific ascent of a stunning problem and along with High Fidelity 8b at Caley, taken bouldering standards in Yorkshire into a new league.
Although Steve's sequence was probably near his estimated 8b+, I agree with Dan V that 'low' (if there is such a thing!) 8b is about right. TC was obviously too strong for his own good!
Although rather dismaying considering my own efforts on Rhythm, 'Back Two' Varian unleashed a one day Beastmaker blitzkrieg on his third ascent last year, his footage did really help unlock a 'do able' sequence, although mine took a little longer! Finally, big thanks to DT for keeping me keen and motivating me. Nice one...keep ya eyes peeled for his 'edit'.
It's all been going off in the Shire over the last couple of months with Jordan and Dave Jones both getting repeats of High Fidelity and the 'old fox' Dunning thoroughly embraced his Frank Lampard years and nailed a third ascent of my problem 'Chabal' 8a+ at Gorple. Great efforts.
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