It's been a while since my last post and I feel like over the autumn/winter I've really got my focus back on climbing and training, work has been going well and I feel more motivated than I have been for years. At the back end of the summer I managed to open a cool project in the Churnet on the Spellbound Block which links the lip traverse (a little fragile, so go gentle!) into the fridge-hug prow...'Toil and Trouble' 8a+?...think Ned repeated the stand, maybe 7c for this and very good. Really pleased that the new guide is on its way, such a lot of hard work from John Coefield and of course, the main man Stu Brooks.
Most of the autumn has been taken up with rekindling my relationship with Parisella's Cave, over the last few years our relationship been on and off...more off than on, but the constant nagging of life-time projects has dragged me back. 'The Cave' is a harsh mistress, you've gotta be really motivated to make the two and half hour pilgrimage from the Shire for dust, polish, goat shit and seepage but the climbing never fails to drag me up a level...I'm all in at the moment and not stopping till it's done.
In between Orme hits and training, Ceri and I had a week in Fontainebleau for October half-term. Although it started a bit damp, the weathered faired up and we climbed every day. We had a lovely gite and I managed a good crop of new 7c blocs and checked out some projects for my February half-term mission with Blacky.
Christmas involved yet more training at the Depot/Boulder UK, finger boarding and Cave sessions. No over-indulgence...eyes on the prize! Ceri had a great day in Wales, when we were over for New Year, and dispatched 'Elephantitus' 7a in Nant Gwynant. I was so pleased for her as she really wanted to do it and it meant a lot.
2015 has started really well, although the weather has been snowy at times we've tried hard to get outside and train consistently. Last weekend I went down to the Peak with Dan and we met up with Ben and James Noble. Dan was really keen for Voyager 8b at Burbage North after trying it the previous weekend. Although it was bitter and we had to wait out a hail/snow shower, conditions were great and after a quick warm up it was time to try hard.
I last tried Voyager in 2006? (before the sit was done) with Steve and it felt really hard. My 'experience' made me leave it and it was only Dan's unflagging enthusiasm that got me involved again. This time however the moves felt tricky but possible, and after a few measured tries I did it first red-point...I think! To be honest it was a little surreal and more than unexpected. Usually projects on grit take seasons but I was really pleased to come away having done it...however, this has now opened another 'can of worms' for which I'm keen to go back.
P.S
It's been over ten years now that I have received shoes from Scarpa as part of their sponsored team and I have really valued their help and support over the years (particularly Steve Roberts at the Mountain Boot Company). I can only reiterate that Scarpa consistently produce quality products (the Instinct VS's are mega) and have always been more than professional. I am really grateful for this.
