the Ubik

At February half-term I headed to Fontainebleau for a week which was great fun, even though we had rather rough weather (two and a half days out of a week isn't great). I was keen to try a few tricky blocs but the fickle conditions cut short our opportunities to try hard and we seemed to struggle to get going. I did manage to nail Ubik 8a+ at Les Mammoths which was great and I felt the sit start may have come together if the rain hadn't of stopped play...next time! Ubik is a great problem; bullet rock, high, dynamic, a big pinch and a campus finish, so good. Blacky has put some footage on Vimeo, check it out.
In between Font and Easter hols I hammered the Cave and made good progress on my project, then it was off to Switzerland for two weeks with a big team from the Shire. We seemed to climb everyday as the weather was glorious and mainly hung out at Chironico as there was lots for everyone and we couldn't really be bothered driving to Magic Wood. The last time I climbed in Chironico was nearly tens years ago, so it was great to get stuck in.
Although I had a couple of brief sessions on a couple of tough problems, I focused on trying to climb things quickly. At the end of our stay I felt like I'd really acquainted myself with the area and knocked off a good crop of 8a's. It was great to climb in such a beautiful place and hang out with the crew.
Since Easter I've taken some time off from climbing, but over the last few weeks I have been back on the case by training consistently and I've even bought a new harness...we'll see if I actually use it! :-)

An Unexpected Journey

It's been a while since my last post and I feel like over the autumn/winter I've really got my focus back on climbing and training, work has been going well and I feel more motivated than I have been for years. At the back end of the summer I managed to open a cool project in the Churnet on the Spellbound Block which links the lip traverse (a little fragile, so go gentle!) into the fridge-hug prow...'Toil and Trouble' 8a+?...think Ned repeated the stand, maybe 7c for this and very good. Really pleased that the new guide is on its way, such a lot of hard work from John Coefield and of course, the main man Stu Brooks.

Most of the autumn has been taken up with rekindling my relationship with Parisella's Cave, over the last few years our relationship been on and off...more off than on, but the constant nagging of life-time projects has dragged me back. 'The Cave' is a harsh mistress, you've gotta be really motivated to make the two and half hour pilgrimage from the Shire for dust, polish, goat shit and seepage but the climbing never fails to drag me up a level...I'm all in at the moment and not stopping till it's done.

In between Orme hits and training, Ceri and I had a week in Fontainebleau for October half-term. Although it started a bit damp, the weathered faired up and we climbed every day. We had a lovely gite and I managed a good crop of new 7c blocs and checked out some projects for my February half-term mission with Blacky.

Christmas involved yet more training at the Depot/Boulder UK, finger boarding and Cave sessions. No over-indulgence...eyes on the prize! Ceri had a great day in Wales, when we were over for New Year, and dispatched 'Elephantitus' 7a in Nant Gwynant. I was so pleased for her as she really wanted to do it and it meant a lot.

2015 has started really well, although the weather has been snowy at times we've tried hard to get outside and train consistently. Last weekend I went down to the Peak with Dan and we met up with Ben and James Noble. Dan was really keen for Voyager 8b at Burbage North after trying it the previous weekend. Although it was bitter and we had to wait out a hail/snow shower, conditions were great and after a quick warm up it was time to try hard.

I last tried Voyager in 2006? (before the sit was done) with Steve and it felt really hard. My 'experience' made me leave it and it was only Dan's unflagging enthusiasm that got me involved again. This time however the moves felt tricky but possible, and after a few measured tries I did it first red-point...I think! To be honest it was a little surreal and more than unexpected. Usually projects on grit take seasons but I was really pleased to come away having done it...however, this has now opened another 'can of worms' for which I'm keen to go back.

P.S
It's been over ten years now that I have received shoes from Scarpa as part of their sponsored team and I have really valued their help and support over the years (particularly Steve Roberts at the Mountain Boot Company). I can only reiterate that Scarpa consistently produce quality products (the Instinct VS's are mega) and have always been more than professional. I am really grateful for this.


 

Keep on keepin' on...

Since returning from our travels in March it has been a little quiet on the climbing front. Work has been a little up in the air over the last few months and this has coincided with a drop in training/climbing motivation...not surprising after such a good trip and I suppose it's hard to be motivated all the time. Over the last month or so I've started to get involved again, training a little at the Depot and getting outside on rock. In June/July I started to fell run a little more consistently but this has now took a back seat as I can't seem to maintain a regular ten or more miles as well as climb. Some recommendations from the last few months: the Hatch links 8a in Parisella's, Three Squirrels 7c+ Caley, Razor 7c Crookrise...brilliant, Special K 7c Crafnant...Nodder's problems are always quality, Cave Problem sit 7c Raven Tor, Witness the Churnetness 8a and Spellbound 7a+ Churnet, Silicon Slave 7c+ Virtual Crag...heard mixed reports but a good choice in the heat!

U.S.A pics

Acid Wash v10 Bishop

Kill On Sight v12 Bishop

Gasperini v12 Bishop

Midnight Lightning v8 Yosemite

Shadow Warrior v12 Yosemite

The Fountainhead v9 Red Rocks

The Pit and the Pendulum v12 Red Rocks

U.S.A and onward...

Since my last post at the end of January when we landed back in Bishop, we have been travelling and climbing constantly which has been great, but I have now drawn breath slightly as I'm back in 'Blighty' in the drizzle! As temps increased in Bishop and good reports of the bouldering in Red Rocks, we decided to head over via 'Death Valley' which was an amazing drive and a great experience. Red Rocks was really good; excellent boulders, interesting rock and pleasant camping. We climbed mainly at the Kraft, Gateway and Black Velvet Canyons and I managed to dispatch loads of great blocs from v8 to v12. I would certainly have another short two weeks here enroute to elsewhere as the climbing, rock quality and venue are great. After two weeks in Red Rocks we decided to head back over to Bishop to finish up our trip. Although in the first week the temps were ok in Vegas, in the second they were starting to get a little ridiculous and it was time to head off. After two days of straight desert highway we arrived back in Bishop and were psyched for some cool breeze and relaxation at the Druid Stones. I managed to 'crush' the Gasperini v12 and Ceri got dangerously close to climbing her first v7. After two months of climbing, pad carrying and sometimes 'epic' walk-ins we were knackered...but really happy with our trip and the hotel we stayed at in L.A felt like a well deserved luxury before we flew back to the U.K. Getting back at the end of Feb was a bit of a shock to say the least, Ceri went back to work but I had arranged to go to Fontainebleau for a few weeks with Tom, Elle and Dylan and this had seemed like a good plan back in October and although I had a lovely week with 'Team Walker', I was a little spent and the warm weather didn't really help, so I decided to head back to the Shire. Our trip was excellent and well worth the decisions we had to take in order to make it happen. You always come back with projects and plans to return and this time was no different. I was really happy with the climbing that we managed and felt chuffed that I had got at least one v12 done in all of the areas we visited. Work restarts at the end of April, so I have some time now for bouldering in the U.K...funny how a trip away gets you psyched for things on your own doorstep! Some choice ticks... Midnight Lightning v8 Yosemite, Monkey Bar Direct v8 Red Rocks, Wall to Wall Carpet v9 Yosemite, The Force v9 Yosemite, Americana Exotica v9 Red Rocks, The Fountain Head v9 Red Rocks, Acid Wash v10 Bishop, Across the Tracks v10 Yosemite, Thriller v10 Yosemite, 6 Degrees v10 Yosemite, Scare Tactics v10 Red Rocks, Vigilante v10 Red Rocks, Stanley Steamer v11 Yosemite, Standing Kill Order v11 Bishop, Stick It v11 Yosemite, Shadow Warrior v12 Yosemite, Kill on Sight v12 Bishop, Lethal Design v12 Red Rocks, The Pit and the Pendulum v12 Red Rocks, The Gasperini v12 Bishop.

U.S.A.

Ceri and I flew out to L.A at the end of December to start our two month trip in the U.S. Picking up our van and heading out to Bishop was great, we'd had a rest over Christmas and recovered from a busy few months getting things together and so we were mad keen to get stuck in. The first couple of weeks we toured about taking in the main areas and getting on lots of projects. The temps were a little warm to say the least but I managed a few v10s and got some idea what was possible or not! The forecast for Yosemite looked too good to miss, so we took a punt and drove around to the north through some great scenery. Arriving in Yosemite started as a mixed bag, I tried the Dominator on the first day and wrecked my knee a little trying to rock over the 'hard' move, then it rained and we wondered if it was a good plan driving the five plus hours. Luckily we bumped into Irish Si Moore in the cafe, it was great to catch up and he assured us the weather would be good. Over the next couple of weeks the weather played ball...it was mint, almost cheating. I started over and finished a long-term dream of Midnight Lightning v8 (the most famous boulder problem in the world?),fought hard on Shadow Warrior v12, Across the Tracks v10, Stanley Steamer v11 (ss to Wall to Wall Carpet v9). I had a 'magic' day at Camp 4 climbing Thriller v10 (the 'best' problem in the world?...maybe), The Force v9 and Stick It v11...one of the best climbing days of my life. I finished with 6 Degrees v10 which was excellent but The Dominator was so close but 'the move' was stubborn...next time. We've just arrived back in Bishop to very warm temps, but with a little shade and decent holds I nailed Kill On Sight v12 at the Tablelands and am keen for more. It rained/snowed today so we are resting and waiting for the granite to cool...

Bulbhaul

At the end of September I'd sussed the moves on Bulbhaul 8b at Almscliff and was keen to give it a go, more as a way to train for a problem in the States rather than as an end in itself. The Keel boulder kicks my arse; strung out and core intensive all the way, any previous success on this block had been hard earned so I felt I had nothing to lose. The poor weather in October forced me indoors and I feel like I've trained in a structured way for the first time ever. Lots of core punishment, no rest and trying to keep up with Turnip and Dr P at the Depot were the key. Getting back on the problem a couple of weeks ago I surprized myself by getting to and falling on the last move, then the nerves kicked in as I knew it was on. Last weekend I fell at the same point and thoughts of going backwards soon materialised. Yesterday, I luckily scraped up it by the 'skin of my teeth', thanks to sheer will power and Ceri screaming encouragement. Feeling rather beaten up today as man-flu has finally struck, probably as pay back for going under 9 stone! Respect to Tom Peckitt for opening Bulbhaul, it's a great piece of involved and frustrating climbing. Gonna give 'the Cliff' a rest for a while!

All change

The last sixth months have been a little strange to say the least. The 'old King' wasn't well in April and was in hospital by August having his engine over-hauled. I'm pleased to say though, that he's just been signed off and has made a great recovery. Consequently the summer was a bit of a write-off, we'd already cancelled a return to South Africa in August and as things turned out it was good that we did. Since going back to work in September it's been all change and rather busy. Ceri and I waved a tearful farewell to 'Babs' our VW van, I resigned from work and leave at Christmas, Ceri got a two month sabbatical, we booked flights to the States and I got a new job starting after Easter...just gotta sort a trip to Font in March now and get over a tweaky finger tendon. Trying to train as much as possible at the moment though, as the weather has been so awful since the start of October. I hope I can put it all together and really push it for once, now that I've sorted some quality time in the new year. I've tried to tick-over with a bit of bouldering over the summer but it's been hard going at times... a few tasty morsels though: Event Horizon 6c+ Samson Stones...the legs cry 'never again' but nice to see Greg honoured. Tarantula 7c Nuda's Tartan...funky Simple Simon 7b Wright's Rock...nice day with CK before the op, 20 years to climb in the Churnet! Byker Groove 7c Sean's Roof, Will 8a Mallory Boulder, Ogwen Mirf's Roof 7c, Churnet...very, very good. All Natural 8a, Almscliff...used my route endurance! Lancaster Bomber 7c, Lad Stones...mint.

Primitive Notion 8a+

Primitive Notion from Highball Productions on Vimeo.

This is Yorkshire

Check it out...season 2012/2013

This Is Yorkshire from Highball Productions on Vimeo.

Hiraeth

I've been over to the north of Wales the last couple of weekends, which has been brilliant. I'd forgotten what it's like to climb in the mountains; great blocs, crazy rock and the sun certainly helped! It was also nice to meet up with the old 'mafia', as Robins, Panton and Ray are as keen as ever. Managed to get a bit done in between feasting, sunning and epic walk-ins. We headed over to Betws and did Nodder's new classic, Roof of da baby Buddha 7c+...what a problem!
As Ceri was trying Elephantitus 7a in Nant Gwynant, I crabbed along Cross Therapy 8a, but only after The Tusk 7c/7c+  started to feel a bit easier. We also managed to get parked in the Pass and enjoyed a day on the Wavelength hillside (not been there for years!), where we got on a few classics like Boysen's Groove and King of Drunks and I dispatched Love Pie 7c+. Can't wait to get back over...;-)

Primitive Man

Over the last month I've been beavering away at the white (grey) stuff and although it felt quite brutal to begin with, in comparison with trying to levitate on gritstone slopers all winter, it has now started to pay off with a decent summit.
On Monday evening I managed to grab the finishing hold of Primitive Notion 8a+ at Kilnsey and make the fourth ascent of the bloc after such notables as Dunningdinho, Back Two (whose foot beta, I hope has improved since joining Scarpa :) and the boy Jones.
Although you always feel a little awkward bouldering at Kilnsey, the variety of moves/holds and rock quality on PN more than make up for bouldering at such an esteemed routing crag. I'd even go so far as to say it was one of the 'best' limestone blocs in this fair isle. Footage will feature in the extras section of 'This is Yorkshire' and no doubt DT will crush the fifth this week.

End of the Season

As the grit season is now drawing to a close, I've been casting around for a few summer projects and even dabbling in a little early limestone. Having said that though, I managed to piece together the first half of Ullola 8b at Caley. The initial slopes to half way are rather good and around 8a/8a+ for the link. The second half was unpleasant, snappy and very hard...not something I'll go back to! Hopefully the young bucks will get involved.
Pottering around in the Peak and at Longridge and climbing a few 7c/7c+ blocs has been good fun and I now have few projects to keep me occupied over the summer and next winter. I'm also reasonably close to a hard lime proj in the Shire which I'm really keen to get linked over the next couple of weeks.
Keep ya eyes peeled for 'This is Yorkshire', the trailer has been well received even with my close up!

Rhythm pic from last season

pic: Tom Woodcock

North of the Wall

Just got back from a long week in the County with Ceri, Woody, Tim and the Duchess. Great time all round, perfect little 'bothy' holiday cottage, good food and great company. We climbed every day as the weather was so good...Bowdens, Kyloes and Redheugh etc and ate lots of the Duchess' flapjack. Tim managed to scalp a couple of 7c's and a 7b+ and I did a couple of 7c+ blocs, in between getting agonisingly close on Working Class 8a+ at Bowden. Really keen to get back there soon.
Now back in the Shire I have another week of Easter holidays so I hope the weather holds and I can get back out on the grit. Spent today at Caley and brushed up a project as well as supporting DT with his repeat of High Fidelty 8b. It was good to return the spot after my attempts on Rhythm and brought back a few memories. What a line and truly brutal gritstone climbing. Brilliant Dan. Well done.

Rhythm

Last week I managed to make the fourth ascent of Rhythm 8b at Flasby Fell. Although just outside the medals, joining Dunning, Clifford and Varian on the role call was brilliant. It's easy to forget that Steve scooped this almost ten years ago and even though it is one of the most aesthetic 'hard' problems on grit its only had four ascents since then!
Coincidentally just after Steve had opened the problem I had been over in the Shire with Ray and Simon from North Wales and we headed up to do some pictures with Steve. Although I would never have admitted it at the time, especially to Steve, he'd made a terrific ascent of a stunning problem and along with High Fidelity 8b at Caley, taken bouldering standards in Yorkshire into a new league.
Although Steve's sequence was probably near his estimated 8b+, I agree with Dan V that 'low' (if there is such a thing!) 8b is about right. TC was obviously too strong for his own good!
Although rather dismaying considering my own efforts on Rhythm, 'Back Two' Varian unleashed a one day Beastmaker blitzkrieg on his third ascent last year, his footage did really help unlock a 'do able' sequence, although mine took a little longer! Finally, big thanks to DT for keeping me keen and motivating me. Nice one...keep ya eyes peeled for his 'edit'.
It's all been going off in the Shire over the last couple of months with Jordan and Dave Jones both getting repeats of High Fidelity and the 'old fox' Dunning thoroughly embraced his Frank Lampard years and nailed a third ascent of my problem 'Chabal' 8a+ at Gorple. Great efforts.

Fat Lady footage

http://player.vimeo.com/video/62417054

The Fat Lady Sings!

Over the last month I've been climbing outside regularly, albeit in between snow showers, but I've been really enjoying it and making progress on some new grit projects. I hope the weather plays ball over the next couple of weeks and I can finish a few things off.
We ventured over to the Bowderstone last weekend for a bit of a change and some early Spring steel sharpening...although it was a bit damp the team took a few scalps and I managed a second ascent of the Ladder Face 'classic' Fat Lady 8b (although an 'eliminate', it climbs really rather well and it don't feel like it), put up by Dan Varian in September last year. I seemed to unlock her charms fairly quickly but needless to say it nearly turned epic in the end!
After much deliberating we have had to bin our trip to Rocklands this summer, what with jobs, DIY projects and various other problems it didn't seem like a good plan...hopefully Bishop at Christmas for a couple of weeks though...keen.
Must finish with a pat on the back for Alex Barrows after his second ascent of 'Pilgrimage' aka 'The Big Link' in Parisella's Cave. Brilliant. Having watched a video of Alex's successful redpoint and having the experience of my own rather mediocre dabblings, it seems obvious that route style links with sport grades and the use of knee pads (and endless core endurance!) will be the future 'norm' in the Cave and this seems like a totally positive way to go. I think we should be a little quicker to give whole hearted plaudits in future...great effort.

2013

2013 has got off to a good start climbing wise, even though the weather over Christmas was useless. On the last weekend of the holiday, Ceri and I headed over to the East coast for chips in Whitby and strange grit/sandstone at Stoupe Brow (Ravensdale). I managed to nail Darkstar ss 7c+ and Precision 7b on Saturday and Requiem for a Dream 8a on Sunday. Requiem is a brilliant 'king line' prow, put up by Tom Newman a few years back- I'd always meant to check it out. It went fairly easily after a bit of an inspection on my new extender ladder!!
Last weekend we braved the cold and slightly damp and headed to Carrock Fell in the Lakes and I managed to settle a score with Metronome 8a (ss to Dan's Wall)...nice little bloc, if a little sharp and definitely one for chilly temps.
Just recovering after a slight scare on my new grit highball. I'd had this on the cards for a while but never managed to get around to getting it done. 'Treebeard' is around 7c...easy roof to tech/fingery arete, with a fifty foot drop two metres away from the landing pads!...great line. Cheers to Tim and Dan for the spot, well done to DT for getting the silver. Think it'll feature in 'This is Yorkshire'.

'Treebeard' 7c