U.S.A.

Ceri and I flew out to L.A at the end of December to start our two month trip in the U.S. Picking up our van and heading out to Bishop was great, we'd had a rest over Christmas and recovered from a busy few months getting things together and so we were mad keen to get stuck in. The first couple of weeks we toured about taking in the main areas and getting on lots of projects. The temps were a little warm to say the least but I managed a few v10s and got some idea what was possible or not! The forecast for Yosemite looked too good to miss, so we took a punt and drove around to the north through some great scenery. Arriving in Yosemite started as a mixed bag, I tried the Dominator on the first day and wrecked my knee a little trying to rock over the 'hard' move, then it rained and we wondered if it was a good plan driving the five plus hours. Luckily we bumped into Irish Si Moore in the cafe, it was great to catch up and he assured us the weather would be good. Over the next couple of weeks the weather played ball...it was mint, almost cheating. I started over and finished a long-term dream of Midnight Lightning v8 (the most famous boulder problem in the world?),fought hard on Shadow Warrior v12, Across the Tracks v10, Stanley Steamer v11 (ss to Wall to Wall Carpet v9). I had a 'magic' day at Camp 4 climbing Thriller v10 (the 'best' problem in the world?...maybe), The Force v9 and Stick It v11...one of the best climbing days of my life. I finished with 6 Degrees v10 which was excellent but The Dominator was so close but 'the move' was stubborn...next time. We've just arrived back in Bishop to very warm temps, but with a little shade and decent holds I nailed Kill On Sight v12 at the Tablelands and am keen for more. It rained/snowed today so we are resting and waiting for the granite to cool...

Bulbhaul

At the end of September I'd sussed the moves on Bulbhaul 8b at Almscliff and was keen to give it a go, more as a way to train for a problem in the States rather than as an end in itself. The Keel boulder kicks my arse; strung out and core intensive all the way, any previous success on this block had been hard earned so I felt I had nothing to lose. The poor weather in October forced me indoors and I feel like I've trained in a structured way for the first time ever. Lots of core punishment, no rest and trying to keep up with Turnip and Dr P at the Depot were the key. Getting back on the problem a couple of weeks ago I surprized myself by getting to and falling on the last move, then the nerves kicked in as I knew it was on. Last weekend I fell at the same point and thoughts of going backwards soon materialised. Yesterday, I luckily scraped up it by the 'skin of my teeth', thanks to sheer will power and Ceri screaming encouragement. Feeling rather beaten up today as man-flu has finally struck, probably as pay back for going under 9 stone! Respect to Tom Peckitt for opening Bulbhaul, it's a great piece of involved and frustrating climbing. Gonna give 'the Cliff' a rest for a while!

All change

The last sixth months have been a little strange to say the least. The 'old King' wasn't well in April and was in hospital by August having his engine over-hauled. I'm pleased to say though, that he's just been signed off and has made a great recovery. Consequently the summer was a bit of a write-off, we'd already cancelled a return to South Africa in August and as things turned out it was good that we did. Since going back to work in September it's been all change and rather busy. Ceri and I waved a tearful farewell to 'Babs' our VW van, I resigned from work and leave at Christmas, Ceri got a two month sabbatical, we booked flights to the States and I got a new job starting after Easter...just gotta sort a trip to Font in March now and get over a tweaky finger tendon. Trying to train as much as possible at the moment though, as the weather has been so awful since the start of October. I hope I can put it all together and really push it for once, now that I've sorted some quality time in the new year. I've tried to tick-over with a bit of bouldering over the summer but it's been hard going at times... a few tasty morsels though: Event Horizon 6c+ Samson Stones...the legs cry 'never again' but nice to see Greg honoured. Tarantula 7c Nuda's Tartan...funky Simple Simon 7b Wright's Rock...nice day with CK before the op, 20 years to climb in the Churnet! Byker Groove 7c Sean's Roof, Will 8a Mallory Boulder, Ogwen Mirf's Roof 7c, Churnet...very, very good. All Natural 8a, Almscliff...used my route endurance! Lancaster Bomber 7c, Lad Stones...mint.

Primitive Notion 8a+

Primitive Notion from Highball Productions on Vimeo.

This is Yorkshire

Check it out...season 2012/2013

This Is Yorkshire from Highball Productions on Vimeo.

Hiraeth

I've been over to the north of Wales the last couple of weekends, which has been brilliant. I'd forgotten what it's like to climb in the mountains; great blocs, crazy rock and the sun certainly helped! It was also nice to meet up with the old 'mafia', as Robins, Panton and Ray are as keen as ever. Managed to get a bit done in between feasting, sunning and epic walk-ins. We headed over to Betws and did Nodder's new classic, Roof of da baby Buddha 7c+...what a problem!
As Ceri was trying Elephantitus 7a in Nant Gwynant, I crabbed along Cross Therapy 8a, but only after The Tusk 7c/7c+  started to feel a bit easier. We also managed to get parked in the Pass and enjoyed a day on the Wavelength hillside (not been there for years!), where we got on a few classics like Boysen's Groove and King of Drunks and I dispatched Love Pie 7c+. Can't wait to get back over...;-)

Primitive Man

Over the last month I've been beavering away at the white (grey) stuff and although it felt quite brutal to begin with, in comparison with trying to levitate on gritstone slopers all winter, it has now started to pay off with a decent summit.
On Monday evening I managed to grab the finishing hold of Primitive Notion 8a+ at Kilnsey and make the fourth ascent of the bloc after such notables as Dunningdinho, Back Two (whose foot beta, I hope has improved since joining Scarpa :) and the boy Jones.
Although you always feel a little awkward bouldering at Kilnsey, the variety of moves/holds and rock quality on PN more than make up for bouldering at such an esteemed routing crag. I'd even go so far as to say it was one of the 'best' limestone blocs in this fair isle. Footage will feature in the extras section of 'This is Yorkshire' and no doubt DT will crush the fifth this week.