At February half-term I headed to Fontainebleau for a week which was great fun, even though we had rather rough weather (two and a half days out of a week isn't great). I was keen to try a few tricky blocs but the fickle conditions cut short our opportunities to try hard and we seemed to struggle to get going. I did manage to nail Ubik 8a+ at Les Mammoths which was great and I felt the sit start may have come together if the rain hadn't of stopped play...next time! Ubik is a great problem; bullet rock, high, dynamic, a big pinch and a campus finish, so good. Blacky has put some footage on Vimeo, check it out.
In between Font and Easter hols I hammered the Cave and made good progress on my project, then it was off to Switzerland for two weeks with a big team from the Shire. We seemed to climb everyday as the weather was glorious and mainly hung out at Chironico as there was lots for everyone and we couldn't really be bothered driving to Magic Wood. The last time I climbed in Chironico was nearly tens years ago, so it was great to get stuck in.
Although I had a couple of brief sessions on a couple of tough problems, I focused on trying to climb things quickly. At the end of our stay I felt like I'd really acquainted myself with the area and knocked off a good crop of 8a's. It was great to climb in such a beautiful place and hang out with the crew.
Since Easter I've taken some time off from climbing, but over the last few weeks I have been back on the case by training consistently and I've even bought a new harness...we'll see if I actually use it! :-)
Wednesday, 13 May 2015
Saturday, 31 January 2015
An Unexpected Journey
It's been a while since my last post and I feel like over the autumn/winter I've really got my focus back on climbing and training, work has been going well and I feel more motivated than I have been for years. At the back end of the summer I managed to open a cool project in the Churnet on the Spellbound Block which links the lip traverse (a little fragile, so go gentle!) into the fridge-hug prow...'Toil and Trouble' 8a+?...think Ned repeated the stand, maybe 7c for this and very good. Really pleased that the new guide is on its way, such a lot of hard work from John Coefield and of course, the main man Stu Brooks.
Most of the autumn has been taken up with rekindling my relationship with Parisella's Cave, over the last few years our relationship been on and off...more off than on, but the constant nagging of life-time projects has dragged me back. 'The Cave' is a harsh mistress, you've gotta be really motivated to make the two and half hour pilgrimage from the Shire for dust, polish, goat shit and seepage but the climbing never fails to drag me up a level...I'm all in at the moment and not stopping till it's done.
In between Orme hits and training, Ceri and I had a week in Fontainebleau for October half-term. Although it started a bit damp, the weathered faired up and we climbed every day. We had a lovely gite and I managed a good crop of new 7c blocs and checked out some projects for my February half-term mission with Blacky.
Christmas involved yet more training at the Depot/Boulder UK, finger boarding and Cave sessions. No over-indulgence...eyes on the prize! Ceri had a great day in Wales, when we were over for New Year, and dispatched 'Elephantitus' 7a in Nant Gwynant. I was so pleased for her as she really wanted to do it and it meant a lot.
2015 has started really well, although the weather has been snowy at times we've tried hard to get outside and train consistently. Last weekend I went down to the Peak with Dan and we met up with Ben and James Noble. Dan was really keen for Voyager 8b at Burbage North after trying it the previous weekend. Although it was bitter and we had to wait out a hail/snow shower, conditions were great and after a quick warm up it was time to try hard.
I last tried Voyager in 2006? (before the sit was done) with Steve and it felt really hard. My 'experience' made me leave it and it was only Dan's unflagging enthusiasm that got me involved again. This time however the moves felt tricky but possible, and after a few measured tries I did it first red-point...I think! To be honest it was a little surreal and more than unexpected. Usually projects on grit take seasons but I was really pleased to come away having done it...however, this has now opened another 'can of worms' for which I'm keen to go back.
P.S
It's been over ten years now that I have received shoes from Scarpa as part of their sponsored team and I have really valued their help and support over the years (particularly Steve Roberts at the Mountain Boot Company). I can only reiterate that Scarpa consistently produce quality products (the Instinct VS's are mega) and have always been more than professional. I am really grateful for this.
Most of the autumn has been taken up with rekindling my relationship with Parisella's Cave, over the last few years our relationship been on and off...more off than on, but the constant nagging of life-time projects has dragged me back. 'The Cave' is a harsh mistress, you've gotta be really motivated to make the two and half hour pilgrimage from the Shire for dust, polish, goat shit and seepage but the climbing never fails to drag me up a level...I'm all in at the moment and not stopping till it's done.
In between Orme hits and training, Ceri and I had a week in Fontainebleau for October half-term. Although it started a bit damp, the weathered faired up and we climbed every day. We had a lovely gite and I managed a good crop of new 7c blocs and checked out some projects for my February half-term mission with Blacky.
Christmas involved yet more training at the Depot/Boulder UK, finger boarding and Cave sessions. No over-indulgence...eyes on the prize! Ceri had a great day in Wales, when we were over for New Year, and dispatched 'Elephantitus' 7a in Nant Gwynant. I was so pleased for her as she really wanted to do it and it meant a lot.
2015 has started really well, although the weather has been snowy at times we've tried hard to get outside and train consistently. Last weekend I went down to the Peak with Dan and we met up with Ben and James Noble. Dan was really keen for Voyager 8b at Burbage North after trying it the previous weekend. Although it was bitter and we had to wait out a hail/snow shower, conditions were great and after a quick warm up it was time to try hard.
I last tried Voyager in 2006? (before the sit was done) with Steve and it felt really hard. My 'experience' made me leave it and it was only Dan's unflagging enthusiasm that got me involved again. This time however the moves felt tricky but possible, and after a few measured tries I did it first red-point...I think! To be honest it was a little surreal and more than unexpected. Usually projects on grit take seasons but I was really pleased to come away having done it...however, this has now opened another 'can of worms' for which I'm keen to go back.
P.S
It's been over ten years now that I have received shoes from Scarpa as part of their sponsored team and I have really valued their help and support over the years (particularly Steve Roberts at the Mountain Boot Company). I can only reiterate that Scarpa consistently produce quality products (the Instinct VS's are mega) and have always been more than professional. I am really grateful for this.
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