Thursday, 6 June 2013

Hiraeth

I've been over to the north of Wales the last couple of weekends, which has been brilliant. I'd forgotten what it's like to climb in the mountains; great blocs, crazy rock and the sun certainly helped! It was also nice to meet up with the old 'mafia', as Robins, Panton and Ray are as keen as ever. Managed to get a bit done in between feasting, sunning and epic walk-ins. We headed over to Betws and did Nodder's new classic, Roof of da baby Buddha 7c+...what a problem!
As Ceri was trying Elephantitus 7a in Nant Gwynant, I crabbed along Cross Therapy 8a, but only after The Tusk 7c/7c+  started to feel a bit easier. We also managed to get parked in the Pass and enjoyed a day on the Wavelength hillside (not been there for years!), where we got on a few classics like Boysen's Groove and King of Drunks and I dispatched Love Pie 7c+. Can't wait to get back over...;-)

Thursday, 23 May 2013

Primitive Man

Over the last month I've been beavering away at the white (grey) stuff and although it felt quite brutal to begin with, in comparison with trying to levitate on gritstone slopers all winter, it has now started to pay off with a decent summit.
On Monday evening I managed to grab the finishing hold of Primitive Notion 8a+ at Kilnsey and make the fourth ascent of the bloc after such notables as Dunningdinho, Back Two (whose foot beta, I hope has improved since joining Scarpa :) and the boy Jones.
Although you always feel a little awkward bouldering at Kilnsey, the variety of moves/holds and rock quality on PN more than make up for bouldering at such an esteemed routing crag. I'd even go so far as to say it was one of the 'best' limestone blocs in this fair isle. Footage will feature in the extras section of 'This is Yorkshire' and no doubt DT will crush the fifth this week.

Thursday, 2 May 2013

End of the Season

As the grit season is now drawing to a close, I've been casting around for a few summer projects and even dabbling in a little early limestone. Having said that though, I managed to piece together the first half of Ullola 8b at Caley. The initial slopes to half way are rather good and around 8a/8a+ for the link. The second half was unpleasant, snappy and very hard...not something I'll go back to! Hopefully the young bucks will get involved.
Pottering around in the Peak and at Longridge and climbing a few 7c/7c+ blocs has been good fun and I now have few projects to keep me occupied over the summer and next winter. I'm also reasonably close to a hard lime proj in the Shire which I'm really keen to get linked over the next couple of weeks.
Keep ya eyes peeled for 'This is Yorkshire', the trailer has been well received even with my close up!

Monday, 8 April 2013

North of the Wall

Just got back from a long week in the County with Ceri, Woody, Tim and the Duchess. Great time all round, perfect little 'bothy' holiday cottage, good food and great company. We climbed every day as the weather was so good...Bowdens, Kyloes and Redheugh etc and ate lots of the Duchess' flapjack. Tim managed to scalp a couple of 7c's and a 7b+ and I did a couple of 7c+ blocs, in between getting agonisingly close on Working Class 8a+ at Bowden. Really keen to get back there soon.
Now back in the Shire I have another week of Easter holidays so I hope the weather holds and I can get back out on the grit. Spent today at Caley and brushed up a project as well as supporting DT with his repeat of High Fidelty 8b. It was good to return the spot after my attempts on Rhythm and brought back a few memories. What a line and truly brutal gritstone climbing. Brilliant Dan. Well done.