U.S.A pics

Acid Wash v10 Bishop

Kill On Sight v12 Bishop

Gasperini v12 Bishop

Midnight Lightning v8 Yosemite

Shadow Warrior v12 Yosemite

The Fountainhead v9 Red Rocks

The Pit and the Pendulum v12 Red Rocks

U.S.A and onward...

Since my last post at the end of January when we landed back in Bishop, we have been travelling and climbing constantly which has been great, but I have now drawn breath slightly as I'm back in 'Blighty' in the drizzle! As temps increased in Bishop and good reports of the bouldering in Red Rocks, we decided to head over via 'Death Valley' which was an amazing drive and a great experience. Red Rocks was really good; excellent boulders, interesting rock and pleasant camping. We climbed mainly at the Kraft, Gateway and Black Velvet Canyons and I managed to dispatch loads of great blocs from v8 to v12. I would certainly have another short two weeks here enroute to elsewhere as the climbing, rock quality and venue are great. After two weeks in Red Rocks we decided to head back over to Bishop to finish up our trip. Although in the first week the temps were ok in Vegas, in the second they were starting to get a little ridiculous and it was time to head off. After two days of straight desert highway we arrived back in Bishop and were psyched for some cool breeze and relaxation at the Druid Stones. I managed to 'crush' the Gasperini v12 and Ceri got dangerously close to climbing her first v7. After two months of climbing, pad carrying and sometimes 'epic' walk-ins we were knackered...but really happy with our trip and the hotel we stayed at in L.A felt like a well deserved luxury before we flew back to the U.K. Getting back at the end of Feb was a bit of a shock to say the least, Ceri went back to work but I had arranged to go to Fontainebleau for a few weeks with Tom, Elle and Dylan and this had seemed like a good plan back in October and although I had a lovely week with 'Team Walker', I was a little spent and the warm weather didn't really help, so I decided to head back to the Shire. Our trip was excellent and well worth the decisions we had to take in order to make it happen. You always come back with projects and plans to return and this time was no different. I was really happy with the climbing that we managed and felt chuffed that I had got at least one v12 done in all of the areas we visited. Work restarts at the end of April, so I have some time now for bouldering in the U.K...funny how a trip away gets you psyched for things on your own doorstep! Some choice ticks... Midnight Lightning v8 Yosemite, Monkey Bar Direct v8 Red Rocks, Wall to Wall Carpet v9 Yosemite, The Force v9 Yosemite, Americana Exotica v9 Red Rocks, The Fountain Head v9 Red Rocks, Acid Wash v10 Bishop, Across the Tracks v10 Yosemite, Thriller v10 Yosemite, 6 Degrees v10 Yosemite, Scare Tactics v10 Red Rocks, Vigilante v10 Red Rocks, Stanley Steamer v11 Yosemite, Standing Kill Order v11 Bishop, Stick It v11 Yosemite, Shadow Warrior v12 Yosemite, Kill on Sight v12 Bishop, Lethal Design v12 Red Rocks, The Pit and the Pendulum v12 Red Rocks, The Gasperini v12 Bishop.

U.S.A.

Ceri and I flew out to L.A at the end of December to start our two month trip in the U.S. Picking up our van and heading out to Bishop was great, we'd had a rest over Christmas and recovered from a busy few months getting things together and so we were mad keen to get stuck in. The first couple of weeks we toured about taking in the main areas and getting on lots of projects. The temps were a little warm to say the least but I managed a few v10s and got some idea what was possible or not! The forecast for Yosemite looked too good to miss, so we took a punt and drove around to the north through some great scenery. Arriving in Yosemite started as a mixed bag, I tried the Dominator on the first day and wrecked my knee a little trying to rock over the 'hard' move, then it rained and we wondered if it was a good plan driving the five plus hours. Luckily we bumped into Irish Si Moore in the cafe, it was great to catch up and he assured us the weather would be good. Over the next couple of weeks the weather played ball...it was mint, almost cheating. I started over and finished a long-term dream of Midnight Lightning v8 (the most famous boulder problem in the world?),fought hard on Shadow Warrior v12, Across the Tracks v10, Stanley Steamer v11 (ss to Wall to Wall Carpet v9). I had a 'magic' day at Camp 4 climbing Thriller v10 (the 'best' problem in the world?...maybe), The Force v9 and Stick It v11...one of the best climbing days of my life. I finished with 6 Degrees v10 which was excellent but The Dominator was so close but 'the move' was stubborn...next time. We've just arrived back in Bishop to very warm temps, but with a little shade and decent holds I nailed Kill On Sight v12 at the Tablelands and am keen for more. It rained/snowed today so we are resting and waiting for the granite to cool...

Bulbhaul

At the end of September I'd sussed the moves on Bulbhaul 8b at Almscliff and was keen to give it a go, more as a way to train for a problem in the States rather than as an end in itself. The Keel boulder kicks my arse; strung out and core intensive all the way, any previous success on this block had been hard earned so I felt I had nothing to lose. The poor weather in October forced me indoors and I feel like I've trained in a structured way for the first time ever. Lots of core punishment, no rest and trying to keep up with Turnip and Dr P at the Depot were the key. Getting back on the problem a couple of weeks ago I surprized myself by getting to and falling on the last move, then the nerves kicked in as I knew it was on. Last weekend I fell at the same point and thoughts of going backwards soon materialised. Yesterday, I luckily scraped up it by the 'skin of my teeth', thanks to sheer will power and Ceri screaming encouragement. Feeling rather beaten up today as man-flu has finally struck, probably as pay back for going under 9 stone! Respect to Tom Peckitt for opening Bulbhaul, it's a great piece of involved and frustrating climbing. Gonna give 'the Cliff' a rest for a while!

All change

The last sixth months have been a little strange to say the least. The 'old King' wasn't well in April and was in hospital by August having his engine over-hauled. I'm pleased to say though, that he's just been signed off and has made a great recovery. Consequently the summer was a bit of a write-off, we'd already cancelled a return to South Africa in August and as things turned out it was good that we did. Since going back to work in September it's been all change and rather busy. Ceri and I waved a tearful farewell to 'Babs' our VW van, I resigned from work and leave at Christmas, Ceri got a two month sabbatical, we booked flights to the States and I got a new job starting after Easter...just gotta sort a trip to Font in March now and get over a tweaky finger tendon. Trying to train as much as possible at the moment though, as the weather has been so awful since the start of October. I hope I can put it all together and really push it for once, now that I've sorted some quality time in the new year. I've tried to tick-over with a bit of bouldering over the summer but it's been hard going at times... a few tasty morsels though: Event Horizon 6c+ Samson Stones...the legs cry 'never again' but nice to see Greg honoured. Tarantula 7c Nuda's Tartan...funky Simple Simon 7b Wright's Rock...nice day with CK before the op, 20 years to climb in the Churnet! Byker Groove 7c Sean's Roof, Will 8a Mallory Boulder, Ogwen Mirf's Roof 7c, Churnet...very, very good. All Natural 8a, Almscliff...used my route endurance! Lancaster Bomber 7c, Lad Stones...mint.

Primitive Notion 8a+

Primitive Notion from Highball Productions on Vimeo.

This is Yorkshire

Check it out...season 2012/2013

This Is Yorkshire from Highball Productions on Vimeo.