Since getting back from Magic Wood at the end of the summer, the autumn term seems to have either dragged or disappeared entirely.
I've managed to get a few things done on the grit which has been nice, as the weather has been generally quite good in the Shire.
Dialetics 8a...eliminate, but it don't feel like it,
Hot Dog Fromage 7c+...odd
The Bulb 7c+...eight years to do two probs on this roof!
Sideliner 8a...at last, my feet have grown after all this time
The Ripple Effect 7c...nice
Low Rider 7c+...about three goes, '...is that ya best'
Turn Me Loose 7b+...great bloc at Bat Buttress
Corporal Khan 8a...a link, but she keeps givin'
No gut bustin' 8bs but I have a few projects in the pipeline and hopefully I'll be able to get out a bit more regularly over Christmas. Don't forget to check out Turnip's 'This is Yorkshire' film or 'edit' as he calls it!
Happy Christmas!
Friday, 14 December 2012
Sunday, 16 September 2012
Magic Wood 2012
After getting back from SA I had four days off and then packed 'Babs' and 'rocketed off' to Switzerland with fellow hobbit, Dan Turner and pale interloper, Mr Ben Freeman. Although the team were ready to crush, we were faced with three of the hottest days in Swiss this year in the first week...this didn't initially seem to phase Dan though, as he floated up Muttertag 8a and shimmied up Body Count 8a+. BF and I slowly melted, along with our skin and at times my patience...keep it cool Trig, keep it cool!
After a couple of days of rain however, temps improved and problems fell. Ben did Foxy Lady 8a and I managed to drag my now rather fatigued 30 somethingness up Nothing Changes 8a and Body Count 8a+. Turnip was still yipping and he did Voigas 8a+...an excellent effort as he discovered 'the perfect go'. The Riverbed 8b managed to hold out, as her greasy little charms sapped our tired arms...one to return for.
Now back at work, swamped with 'data analysis' this feels like a long time ago...had my first grit session though yest. Keen.
After a couple of days of rain however, temps improved and problems fell. Ben did Foxy Lady 8a and I managed to drag my now rather fatigued 30 somethingness up Nothing Changes 8a and Body Count 8a+. Turnip was still yipping and he did Voigas 8a+...an excellent effort as he discovered 'the perfect go'. The Riverbed 8b managed to hold out, as her greasy little charms sapped our tired arms...one to return for.
Now back at work, swamped with 'data analysis' this feels like a long time ago...had my first grit session though yest. Keen.
Rocklands 2012 continued
It was great to see some beastly performances from wads (Jan Holger? etc) but I was probably most impressed with our own Barney Ventham from 'down south'. He got himself up a brace of classics and nailed Black Shadow 8a+/8b and Armed Response hard 8a+. Barnaby is a really nice guy and one of the strongest climbers I've seen for a while and at only 18, he's a name to watch out for in the future.
I felt like I had a good trip...three weeks is never enough! I managed to dispatch some unfinished business from last time, get something done most sessions and slowly 'drag' how hard I can climb in a session up a grade!
My 'monkey business':
Loads of 7a+/7b...manaaged to flash four 7c's and a 7c+...fun.
A Question of Balance 7b,The Rhino 7b+,Potato Direct 7c,Cedar Spine ss 7c,Last Day in Paradise 7c,Sunset Arete 7c, A Pinch of Herbs 7c,Tea Garden Roof 7c,Rooi Klavier 7c,Rasta Roof 7c+, Black Mango Chutney 7c+,Barracuda 8a, Green Mamba 8a+, Nutsa 8a+, A tea with Elmarie 8a+ and Fragile Steps 8b.
Can't wait to return in 2013...we've booked already...it's not that good honest!
I felt like I had a good trip...three weeks is never enough! I managed to dispatch some unfinished business from last time, get something done most sessions and slowly 'drag' how hard I can climb in a session up a grade!
My 'monkey business':
Loads of 7a+/7b...manaaged to flash four 7c's and a 7c+...fun.
A Question of Balance 7b,The Rhino 7b+,Potato Direct 7c,Cedar Spine ss 7c,Last Day in Paradise 7c,Sunset Arete 7c, A Pinch of Herbs 7c,Tea Garden Roof 7c,Rooi Klavier 7c,Rasta Roof 7c+, Black Mango Chutney 7c+,Barracuda 8a, Green Mamba 8a+, Nutsa 8a+, A tea with Elmarie 8a+ and Fragile Steps 8b.
Can't wait to return in 2013...we've booked already...it's not that good honest!
Rocklands 2012
Wow! Great three week trip to South Africa with Ceri, Tom, Kate, Emma F and Michelle.We had much fun, sends a plenty, great conditions and excellent steaks! I'd been looking forward to this trip and had managed to train consistently, albeit with a slight wobble at the end of term. All was as hoped for and more, after our last trip to Rocklands in 2008. I was however, slightly worried that this time it would be rammed with homs and travelling beasts but we managed to avoid any scenes, often climbing at major areas with only us and a couple of other teams.
With the benefit of being on a longer trip I opted for a bit of cruising around in the first week, trying to chill 'a bit' and check out some areas.But during the last two weeks I hammered it...which is never easy, trying to not get too tired, save skin and make progress on projects.I'm always slightly torn...try a couple of hard projects and risk getting little done or drop a grade or two and nail stuff quickly (in the end I opted for the latter, I'll maybe try some 8b+s next year!!!).
We generally tried to climb two on, one off, with early starts and then walking back looking at the stars...mint. Although the pressure was on sometimes by being on a big trip, we all climbed well and dispatched some projects. Tom did a pack of 7b+,7c and 7c+ classics (Caroline 7c+, Cedar Spine ss 7c, Sunset Arete 7c etc) and Kate blitzed some 7a/7a+s and got close to nailing a 7b. Ceri got her 'war face on' and did some 7a's and a 7a+, she also managed to rid herself of an old nemesis by eventually cruising the classic 'The Roof is on Fire'.
With the benefit of being on a longer trip I opted for a bit of cruising around in the first week, trying to chill 'a bit' and check out some areas.But during the last two weeks I hammered it...which is never easy, trying to not get too tired, save skin and make progress on projects.I'm always slightly torn...try a couple of hard projects and risk getting little done or drop a grade or two and nail stuff quickly (in the end I opted for the latter, I'll maybe try some 8b+s next year!!!).
We generally tried to climb two on, one off, with early starts and then walking back looking at the stars...mint. Although the pressure was on sometimes by being on a big trip, we all climbed well and dispatched some projects. Tom did a pack of 7b+,7c and 7c+ classics (Caroline 7c+, Cedar Spine ss 7c, Sunset Arete 7c etc) and Kate blitzed some 7a/7a+s and got close to nailing a 7b. Ceri got her 'war face on' and did some 7a's and a 7a+, she also managed to rid herself of an old nemesis by eventually cruising the classic 'The Roof is on Fire'.
Sunday, 8 July 2012
Sunday, 29 April 2012
Le Chaos de Targasonne
Over Easter Ceri and I headed out to Targasonne (Cerdagne area of the Pyrenees, on the border of Spain and Andorra) for two weeks. We had visited Targasonne before in August 2007 as an aside from routes in Gorge du Tarn, but on this occasion it was a mistake as it was scorching and we quickly headed back, so we arrived this time hoping for better conditions and favourable temps.
The first couple of days were hot and we were rather tired from the drive/work, so progress was slow, but as the conditions improved the scalps began to fall. Targasonne is a beautiful place and the granite is not as sharp as people make out (although you will get flayed if it's hot...be warned! Spring was perfect but no later!). Indeed we had a bit of everything weather wise...intense sun (everything is south facing!), hail, snow, rain and perfect cloudy/windy conditions.
At the end of the first week the young bucks arrived in the form of Dan 'can of Monster for breakfast' Turner and the Freeman brothers, Ben and John ('they're special you see'). The only member of 'team Babs' not that keen was 'the General' who mooched about about a bit and then slept in the sun mostly, dreaming about his couch back in the Shire.
By the end of our couple of weeks (about ten days climbing in total) Ceri had taken down 'Serrez Stimulez' 7a+ (her first at the grade!) at Taz and I'd racked up fair crop 8a/8a+s and so, with rather tender finger tips, we hightailed it home...a great trip and keen for a return next Easter...the ridge down to Angoustrine appears to have some fantastic potential! Turnip is in the process of putting together something on Vimeo or somethingorother, check it out!
Now back in Blighty it's WET...but 'the Cave' shall provide, failing that, training has begun in earnest for Rocklands and then Magic Wood in July/August.
Top Trumps (the scores are a little all over the place!):
I Shot Sarconazy 8a
Uniformicide 8a (flash)
La Beautie de la Chose 8a+
Magic Instinct 8a
Sing while you mail 8a (flash)
Psoas Hole 8a+
Shadow Dancer 8a...hard, I thought 8a+!
...plus loads of 7c/7c+s...L'oeuil du voisin 7c at Chapeau (next to the campsite) was my favourite.
Forgot to mention,stay at Camping 'La Griole', the owners are lovely and very helpful...plus it's a beautiful spot.
The first couple of days were hot and we were rather tired from the drive/work, so progress was slow, but as the conditions improved the scalps began to fall. Targasonne is a beautiful place and the granite is not as sharp as people make out (although you will get flayed if it's hot...be warned! Spring was perfect but no later!). Indeed we had a bit of everything weather wise...intense sun (everything is south facing!), hail, snow, rain and perfect cloudy/windy conditions.
At the end of the first week the young bucks arrived in the form of Dan 'can of Monster for breakfast' Turner and the Freeman brothers, Ben and John ('they're special you see'). The only member of 'team Babs' not that keen was 'the General' who mooched about about a bit and then slept in the sun mostly, dreaming about his couch back in the Shire.
By the end of our couple of weeks (about ten days climbing in total) Ceri had taken down 'Serrez Stimulez' 7a+ (her first at the grade!) at Taz and I'd racked up fair crop 8a/8a+s and so, with rather tender finger tips, we hightailed it home...a great trip and keen for a return next Easter...the ridge down to Angoustrine appears to have some fantastic potential! Turnip is in the process of putting together something on Vimeo or somethingorother, check it out!
Now back in Blighty it's WET...but 'the Cave' shall provide, failing that, training has begun in earnest for Rocklands and then Magic Wood in July/August.
Top Trumps (the scores are a little all over the place!):
I Shot Sarconazy 8a
Uniformicide 8a (flash)
La Beautie de la Chose 8a+
Magic Instinct 8a
Sing while you mail 8a (flash)
Psoas Hole 8a+
Shadow Dancer 8a...hard, I thought 8a+!
...plus loads of 7c/7c+s...L'oeuil du voisin 7c at Chapeau (next to the campsite) was my favourite.
Forgot to mention,stay at Camping 'La Griole', the owners are lovely and very helpful...plus it's a beautiful spot.
Monday, 12 March 2012
Spring!
Over Feb half term Ceri and I teamed up with the Robins' and Caff and Sophie and headed to the County for four days...wow...great weather (sunny, cold and windy!) and a lovely holiday cottage, much fun. Managed to hammer it and climb every day; Bowden, Back Bowden, Kyloe In and Dovehole etc. I shuffled and scrittled my way up the awesome Alfie Thornton 7c+ and Transformer LH 7c at Bowden (Dog Eat Dog is a great, must do 7a) and The Rack Direct 7c+ at Kyloe In...how Malcolm did this at the end of 40m of climbing is quite something! Also managed The Yorkshireman std 7b+ first go...made up, as it's never easy!
I've been training quite hard over the last month...circuits, sets, circuits, sets...but it feels good to be getting fit at last! Headed to the Orme the other weekend and had two days in the Cave (the mind it say 'yes', but the elbows, they say 'no') which was great. I managed to repeat Trigger Cut 7c+ again after 7 years of attempts with the now 'conventional' beta...more projects as a result, back over this weekend!
Targasonne at Easter for two weeks with Ceri, Barbara and the General...'whoop, whoop' as Anna 'n' Tim would say.
I've been training quite hard over the last month...circuits, sets, circuits, sets...but it feels good to be getting fit at last! Headed to the Orme the other weekend and had two days in the Cave (the mind it say 'yes', but the elbows, they say 'no') which was great. I managed to repeat Trigger Cut 7c+ again after 7 years of attempts with the now 'conventional' beta...more projects as a result, back over this weekend!
Targasonne at Easter for two weeks with Ceri, Barbara and the General...'whoop, whoop' as Anna 'n' Tim would say.
Sunday, 5 February 2012
Winter Update
Autumn 2011 was a bit of mixed bag with warm and damp conditions much of the time in North Yorkshire. At October half term we headed to Font but the humid weather seemed to follow us across the Channel. We had a great time nevertheless climbing lots of 7's (Fourmi Verte was the bloc of the trip!), relaxing and drinking wine. 'Barbara' our 'new' T5 gave us great service...thanks to 'Tako Vans' for the conversion!
In November I attended the Robins' stag gathering and in between the usual debauchery and gritstone squeezes, I managed to scrabble along Grand Theft 7c and quickly up Columns 7c+? Richie and I managed a rather cold and jaded Sunday afternoon ascent of Valkyrie which was great. Considering I first did Valkyrie with my Dad about twenty years ago it had lost none of its quality or exposure! Great memories.
In between training power endurance at 'the Barn' and enjoying the comp problems at The Depot I've been trying to improve core strength in my cellar, I'll see if it's been worth it in the Spring! Whilst visiting the in laws in Mid Wales at Christmas I popped to Tan y Grisiau and although most things were wet and I struggled to warm up, I managed to blast up Flick of the Wrist 7c? second go...what a great bloc and with more potential here, I'll be back! Over the rest of December and January, Brimham/Whitehouses have been reliable as ever, giving lots of 7cs etc. SD and I also headed to the newly developed Eavestone 'Crevasse' and I managed to surmount Get a Grip 7a (excellent), Sky Diamond 7c and Digital Delirium 7c+/8a? Steve smoothed his way up a wall project around the corner giving 'Diamond Lights?' hard 7? With the cold weather now being back in full force I put an old nemesis to bed last week and took down Growled 8a at Whitehouses. Hopefully more left to right action before it gets too warm!
The Yorkshire scene is potentially more vibrant than ever in 2012 with 'young turks' Dan Turner and Dave Jones moving to the area and the hugely powerful Dr Palmer is also back in the Shire plus 'old twinkle toes' Dunning is helping keep the end up for the 30somethings, by being injury free and nearing full power. There will be more to follow!
In November I attended the Robins' stag gathering and in between the usual debauchery and gritstone squeezes, I managed to scrabble along Grand Theft 7c and quickly up Columns 7c+? Richie and I managed a rather cold and jaded Sunday afternoon ascent of Valkyrie which was great. Considering I first did Valkyrie with my Dad about twenty years ago it had lost none of its quality or exposure! Great memories.
In between training power endurance at 'the Barn' and enjoying the comp problems at The Depot I've been trying to improve core strength in my cellar, I'll see if it's been worth it in the Spring! Whilst visiting the in laws in Mid Wales at Christmas I popped to Tan y Grisiau and although most things were wet and I struggled to warm up, I managed to blast up Flick of the Wrist 7c? second go...what a great bloc and with more potential here, I'll be back! Over the rest of December and January, Brimham/Whitehouses have been reliable as ever, giving lots of 7cs etc. SD and I also headed to the newly developed Eavestone 'Crevasse' and I managed to surmount Get a Grip 7a (excellent), Sky Diamond 7c and Digital Delirium 7c+/8a? Steve smoothed his way up a wall project around the corner giving 'Diamond Lights?' hard 7? With the cold weather now being back in full force I put an old nemesis to bed last week and took down Growled 8a at Whitehouses. Hopefully more left to right action before it gets too warm!
The Yorkshire scene is potentially more vibrant than ever in 2012 with 'young turks' Dan Turner and Dave Jones moving to the area and the hugely powerful Dr Palmer is also back in the Shire plus 'old twinkle toes' Dunning is helping keep the end up for the 30somethings, by being injury free and nearing full power. There will be more to follow!
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