Le Chaos de Targasonne

Over Easter Ceri and I headed out to Targasonne (Cerdagne area of the Pyrenees, on the border of Spain and Andorra) for two weeks. We had visited Targasonne before in August 2007 as an aside from routes in Gorge du Tarn, but on this occasion it was a mistake as it was scorching and we quickly headed back, so we arrived this time hoping for better conditions and favourable temps.
The first couple of days were hot and we were rather tired from the drive/work, so progress was slow, but as the conditions improved the scalps began to fall. Targasonne is a beautiful place and the granite is not as sharp as people make out (although you will get flayed if it's hot...be warned! Spring was perfect but no later!). Indeed we had a bit of everything weather wise...intense sun (everything is south facing!), hail, snow, rain and perfect cloudy/windy conditions.
At the end of the first week the young bucks arrived in the form of Dan 'can of Monster for breakfast' Turner and the Freeman brothers, Ben and John ('they're special you see'). The only member of 'team Babs' not that keen was 'the General' who mooched about about a bit and then slept in the sun mostly, dreaming about his couch back in the Shire.
By the end of our couple of weeks (about ten days climbing in total) Ceri had taken down 'Serrez Stimulez' 7a+ (her first at the grade!) at Taz and I'd racked up fair crop 8a/8a+s and so, with rather tender finger tips, we hightailed it home...a great trip and keen for a return next Easter...the ridge down to Angoustrine appears to have some fantastic potential! Turnip is in the process of putting together something on Vimeo or somethingorother, check it out!
Now back in Blighty it's WET...but 'the Cave' shall provide, failing that, training has begun in earnest for Rocklands and then Magic Wood in July/August.

Top Trumps (the scores are a little all over the place!):
I Shot Sarconazy 8a
Uniformicide 8a (flash)
La Beautie de la Chose 8a+
Magic Instinct 8a
Sing while you mail 8a (flash)
Psoas Hole 8a+
Shadow Dancer 8a...hard, I thought 8a+!
...plus loads of 7c/7c+s...L'oeuil du voisin 7c at Chapeau (next to the campsite) was my favourite.

Forgot to mention,stay at Camping 'La Griole', the owners are lovely and very helpful...plus it's a beautiful spot.

Spring!

Over Feb half term Ceri and I teamed up with the Robins' and Caff and Sophie and headed to the County for four days...wow...great weather (sunny, cold and windy!) and a lovely holiday cottage, much fun. Managed to hammer it and climb every day; Bowden, Back Bowden, Kyloe In and Dovehole etc. I shuffled and scrittled my way up the awesome Alfie Thornton 7c+ and Transformer LH 7c at Bowden (Dog Eat Dog is a great, must do 7a) and The Rack Direct 7c+ at Kyloe In...how Malcolm did this at the end of 40m of climbing is quite something! Also managed The Yorkshireman std 7b+ first go...made up, as it's never easy!
I've been training quite hard over the last month...circuits, sets, circuits, sets...but it feels good to be getting fit at last! Headed to the Orme the other weekend and had two days in the Cave (the mind it say 'yes', but the elbows, they say 'no') which was great. I managed to repeat Trigger Cut 7c+ again after 7 years of attempts with the now 'conventional' beta...more projects as a result, back over this weekend!
Targasonne at Easter for two weeks with Ceri, Barbara and the General...'whoop, whoop' as Anna 'n' Tim would say.

Winter Update

Autumn 2011 was a bit of mixed bag with warm and damp conditions much of the time in North Yorkshire. At October half term we headed to Font but the humid weather seemed to follow us across the Channel. We had a great time nevertheless climbing lots of 7's (Fourmi Verte was the bloc of the trip!), relaxing and drinking wine. 'Barbara' our 'new' T5 gave us great service...thanks to 'Tako Vans' for the conversion!

In November I attended the Robins' stag gathering and in between the usual debauchery and gritstone squeezes, I managed to scrabble along Grand Theft 7c and quickly up Columns 7c+? Richie and I managed a rather cold and jaded Sunday afternoon ascent of Valkyrie which was great. Considering I first did Valkyrie with my Dad about twenty years ago it had lost none of its quality or exposure! Great memories.

In between training power endurance at 'the Barn' and enjoying the comp problems at The Depot I've been trying to improve core strength in my cellar, I'll see if it's been worth it in the Spring! Whilst visiting the in laws in Mid Wales at Christmas I popped to Tan y Grisiau and although most things were wet and I struggled to warm up, I managed to blast up Flick of the Wrist 7c? second go...what a great bloc and with more potential here, I'll be back! Over the rest of December and January, Brimham/Whitehouses have been reliable as ever, giving lots of 7cs etc. SD and I also headed to the newly developed Eavestone 'Crevasse' and I managed to surmount Get a Grip 7a (excellent), Sky Diamond 7c and Digital Delirium 7c+/8a? Steve smoothed his way up a wall project around the corner giving 'Diamond Lights?' hard 7? With the cold weather now being back in full force I put an old nemesis to bed last week and took down Growled 8a at Whitehouses. Hopefully more left to right action before it gets too warm!

The Yorkshire scene is potentially more vibrant than ever in 2012 with 'young turks' Dan Turner and Dave Jones moving to the area and the hugely powerful Dr Palmer is also back in the Shire plus 'old twinkle toes' Dunning is helping keep the end up for the 30somethings, by being injury free and nearing full power. There will be more to follow!

Blog Update!

pic: Woody 'the General' looking mean and in no mood for the camera at Anstey's Cove

Since making a good start to the year and having a productive season bouldering, the last few months have been a little slow to say the least. After getting back from Font at the end of April I got keen for sport climbing and wanted to generate some endurance...it did happen but only by the end of August and by that time everything had got wet! Although in the end I did manage a few 8bs, you need to be fit in March and maintain some stamina over the winter in order to start the year fighting. I'll know better next time!
Now that the cold weather has returned, I'm keen to get stuck into some grit projects...I'll try and post more regularly with some updates!

Easter Holidays

Just returned from two weeks in Font for my Easter holidays, although it was very hot we still managed to climb most days and relaxing in the sun was great. Felt a bit drained from a busy term so I'd not really trained a whole lot before we went but I managed to get it together by the second week and dispatch a couple of 8as and a bag of 7s. Ceri did her first 7a in Font despite the summer temps...made up! I also put a couple of sessions into a project which I'm keen for rematch on, possibly at May half term. It's a big ask climbing hard in Font when it's warm so I've been cranking the training up at 'the Barn' in preparation...hopefully my board model is a grade harder!

Crescendo 8a at Videlles (l'Abattoir)

Yes We Can- Whitehouses

Thought I'd post a bit of footage of my new link up at Whitehouses...Yes We Can 8a+/8b links The Trial of Slinky Bob's Master 8a into Whitefinger 7c+...I've been working on this for a while! Cheers to President Crome for the footage! We also had a trip down to the Peak and I made short work of Help the Young ss 8a at Stanage. Roll on the Easter holidays!

High Fidelity

On Bank Holiday Monday just after New Year I finally made an ascent of High Fidelity 8b at Caley. Although I've had a few sessions on it every winter for the last couple of years, progress has, to say the least, been a little slow! However once I'd sussed the moves around the undercut and prepared the jump to the pocket I knew it was on.

With Caley in perfect condition and Blacky spotting I went for the lunge to the pocket on my first go but fumbled, fell and only narrowly hit the mats. Then after a couple of frustrating and rather stressful tries, I latched the pocket...I was pleased to say the least!

High Fidelity is such a great line and with only five ascents (Dunning, Moon, Earl, Birch...what a role call!) in seven years it must be pretty tricky!