Winter Update

Autumn 2011 was a bit of mixed bag with warm and damp conditions much of the time in North Yorkshire. At October half term we headed to Font but the humid weather seemed to follow us across the Channel. We had a great time nevertheless climbing lots of 7's (Fourmi Verte was the bloc of the trip!), relaxing and drinking wine. 'Barbara' our 'new' T5 gave us great service...thanks to 'Tako Vans' for the conversion!

In November I attended the Robins' stag gathering and in between the usual debauchery and gritstone squeezes, I managed to scrabble along Grand Theft 7c and quickly up Columns 7c+? Richie and I managed a rather cold and jaded Sunday afternoon ascent of Valkyrie which was great. Considering I first did Valkyrie with my Dad about twenty years ago it had lost none of its quality or exposure! Great memories.

In between training power endurance at 'the Barn' and enjoying the comp problems at The Depot I've been trying to improve core strength in my cellar, I'll see if it's been worth it in the Spring! Whilst visiting the in laws in Mid Wales at Christmas I popped to Tan y Grisiau and although most things were wet and I struggled to warm up, I managed to blast up Flick of the Wrist 7c? second go...what a great bloc and with more potential here, I'll be back! Over the rest of December and January, Brimham/Whitehouses have been reliable as ever, giving lots of 7cs etc. SD and I also headed to the newly developed Eavestone 'Crevasse' and I managed to surmount Get a Grip 7a (excellent), Sky Diamond 7c and Digital Delirium 7c+/8a? Steve smoothed his way up a wall project around the corner giving 'Diamond Lights?' hard 7? With the cold weather now being back in full force I put an old nemesis to bed last week and took down Growled 8a at Whitehouses. Hopefully more left to right action before it gets too warm!

The Yorkshire scene is potentially more vibrant than ever in 2012 with 'young turks' Dan Turner and Dave Jones moving to the area and the hugely powerful Dr Palmer is also back in the Shire plus 'old twinkle toes' Dunning is helping keep the end up for the 30somethings, by being injury free and nearing full power. There will be more to follow!

Blog Update!

pic: Woody 'the General' looking mean and in no mood for the camera at Anstey's Cove

Since making a good start to the year and having a productive season bouldering, the last few months have been a little slow to say the least. After getting back from Font at the end of April I got keen for sport climbing and wanted to generate some endurance...it did happen but only by the end of August and by that time everything had got wet! Although in the end I did manage a few 8bs, you need to be fit in March and maintain some stamina over the winter in order to start the year fighting. I'll know better next time!
Now that the cold weather has returned, I'm keen to get stuck into some grit projects...I'll try and post more regularly with some updates!

Easter Holidays

Just returned from two weeks in Font for my Easter holidays, although it was very hot we still managed to climb most days and relaxing in the sun was great. Felt a bit drained from a busy term so I'd not really trained a whole lot before we went but I managed to get it together by the second week and dispatch a couple of 8as and a bag of 7s. Ceri did her first 7a in Font despite the summer temps...made up! I also put a couple of sessions into a project which I'm keen for rematch on, possibly at May half term. It's a big ask climbing hard in Font when it's warm so I've been cranking the training up at 'the Barn' in preparation...hopefully my board model is a grade harder!

Crescendo 8a at Videlles (l'Abattoir)

Yes We Can- Whitehouses

Thought I'd post a bit of footage of my new link up at Whitehouses...Yes We Can 8a+/8b links The Trial of Slinky Bob's Master 8a into Whitefinger 7c+...I've been working on this for a while! Cheers to President Crome for the footage! We also had a trip down to the Peak and I made short work of Help the Young ss 8a at Stanage. Roll on the Easter holidays!

High Fidelity

On Bank Holiday Monday just after New Year I finally made an ascent of High Fidelity 8b at Caley. Although I've had a few sessions on it every winter for the last couple of years, progress has, to say the least, been a little slow! However once I'd sussed the moves around the undercut and prepared the jump to the pocket I knew it was on.

With Caley in perfect condition and Blacky spotting I went for the lunge to the pocket on my first go but fumbled, fell and only narrowly hit the mats. Then after a couple of frustrating and rather stressful tries, I latched the pocket...I was pleased to say the least!

High Fidelity is such a great line and with only five ascents (Dunning, Moon, Earl, Birch...what a role call!) in seven years it must be pretty tricky!

Partage 8a+ at Buthiers, Fontainebleau

As I'm not the most IT proficient I've been experimenting with my blog...managed to upload some old footage from a couple of years ago!

Belated Happy New Year!

Since I got back from Fontainebleau at the end of October I’ve been training a lot at the Depot, ticking through the excellent comp problems and now that it’s a balmy 3 degrees I’ve been putting some time in at the Barn. Although the weather has been a little crazy in North Yorkshire with a good covering of snow and ridiculously low temps I’ve been trying hard to repeat one problem, put up another and make progress on a link up…hopefully with the snow gone and the crags drying off I’ll make some more progress!

As the weather has been a little damp since Christmas I’ve been booking some trips for 2011. I’m keen for a week in Font at Feb half term and Branson/Fionnay? with Nodder at Easter. New van permitting we are also off to France/Switzerland for the summer. Must get back to the fingerboard…Happy New Year!